1 Overview
Anubias is one of the most forgiving live plants you can add to a freshwater aquarium, making it a favorite among beginners and experienced hobbyists alike. Native to shady streams and riverbanks in tropical Africa, it naturally grows attached to rocks and driftwood, where it receives dappled light and consistent moisture. In the home aquarium, it adapts well to a wide range of conditions, provided the water is clean and stable. Its slow growth rate means it rarely overruns a tank, and its tough leaves are ignored by most plant-eating fish. Because it thrives in low light without supplemental carbon dioxide, Anubias is an excellent choice for low-tech setups, nano tanks, and even bowls that meet proper housing standards. This plant is not just decorative; it also provides cover for shy fish and grazing surfaces for small invertebrates. Unlike many fast-growing stem plants, Anubias does not demand frequent trimming or intense fertilization. Instead, it rewards patience with long-lived, deep-green foliage that can become the centerpiece of a carefully aquascaped nano aquarium. Whether you are setting up your first five-gallon tank or looking for a reliable plant for a shady corner, Anubias offers beauty and resilience in equal measure.
2 Appearance and identification
Anubias is easily recognized by its robust, leathery leaves that emerge from a thick, creeping rhizome. The leaves are typically broad and oval to lance-shaped, with a smooth, slightly glossy surface that can range from deep forest green to lighter shades depending on light intensity and species. In lower light, the color tends to be a richer, darker green, while brighter conditions may bring out a slightly paler hue. Leaf size varies by variety, but most common forms reach about 4 to 8 inches in height, with individual leaves spanning 2 to 6 inches. The rhizome itself is a horizontal, woody-looking stem that should never be buried; it creeps along rocks or wood, sending out roots and new leaves at intervals. This growth habit gives Anubias a compact, bushy appearance over time, though it never becomes invasive.
3 Tank setup and water parameters
Setting up a tank for Anubias is straightforward, but a few key details ensure long-term success. The minimum tank size is 5 gallons, which is suitable for a single small specimen or a few nano varieties. Larger tanks, from 10 gallons upward, provide more stable water conditions and allow you to keep multiple plants without crowding. Anubias prefers water temperatures between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, which aligns with typical tropical community tanks. The pH should be kept between 6.0 and 7.5, though the plant can adapt to slightly higher or lower values if changes are gradual. Stability is more important than chasing a specific number; sudden shifts in pH or temperature can stress the plant and lead to melt or yellowing leaves. Filtration should provide gentle to moderate flow, as strong currents can damage leaves over time and may discourage the plant from rooting well.
4 Feeding and care
As a live plant, Anubias does not eat in the traditional sense; it produces its own food through photosynthesis. However, it still requires certain nutrients to thrive. In a low-light aquarium without carbon dioxide injection, the plant's growth is slow, so its nutritional demands are modest. The primary nutrient it needs from the water column is a balanced supply of micronutrients, particularly iron, which supports chlorophyll production and keeps leaves green. A comprehensive liquid fertilizer designed for low-tech planted tanks can be dosed according to the manufacturer's instructions, usually once or twice a week. Be careful not to overdose, as excess nutrients can fuel algae. If your tank is heavily stocked with fish, the fish waste may provide some nutrients, but it is rarely enough on its own for long-term health. Root tabs are not necessary because Anubias feeds mainly through its leaves and rhizome, not its roots, though the roots do absorb some nutrients from the water.
5 Placement, behavior, and tankmates
Anubias is a versatile plant that can be placed in several ways. It works well as a midground or foreground accent, especially the smaller varieties like Anubias nana. Because it attaches to hardscape, you can mount it on driftwood, rocks, or even coconut shells to create a natural look. In a nano tank, a single well-placed Anubias can serve as the main decorative element. It does not behave aggressively; it simply grows slowly and steadily, never overwhelming its neighbors. This makes it an excellent companion for other slow-growing plants like Java fern, Java moss, and Cryptocoryne, which share similar care requirements. When arranging your tank, consider the plant's eventual size and give it enough space to spread without shading other light-loving plants. Place it in a spot with gentle water flow and low to moderate light, and avoid direct, intense lighting that encourages algae.
6 Breeding and propagation
Propagating Anubias is a rewarding and simple process. The plant reproduces by division of its rhizome. Over time, the rhizome grows longer and may branch, creating new growth points. To propagate, wait until the plant has at least five or six leaves and a healthy rhizome. Using a sharp, sterilized knife or scissors, cut the rhizome into sections, ensuring each section has at least two to three leaves and a portion of the rhizome. It is important to make clean cuts to minimize damage and prevent infection. After cutting, allow the cut ends to dry for a few minutes or dip them in a mild disinfectant solution, though this is optional. Then, attach each new section to a rock or piece of driftwood as you would a new plant. Keep the water clean and stable, and the new plants will gradually develop roots and new leaves.
7 Frequently asked questions
Q: Why are the leaves on my Anubias turning yellow? A: Yellowing leaves can indicate a nutrient deficiency, most commonly iron. It can also be caused by too much light, which leads to algae that block light and nutrients, or by sudden changes in water parameters. Check your fertilization routine and consider adding a liquid micronutrient supplement. Ensure the plant is not buried and that water flow is adequate. If the yellowing is limited to older leaves, it may be natural aging; simply trim them off.
Q: Can I keep Anubias in a tank without a filter? A: While Anubias is hardy, it still requires clean, stable water. A filter helps maintain water quality by removing waste and providing circulation. In a small, unfiltered container, you would need to perform frequent water changes and monitor parameters closely. For best results, use a gentle filter, especially in tanks 5 gallons or larger. If you choose a filterless setup, stock very lightly and include other natural filtration like fast-growing plants.
Q: How do I stop algae from growing on Anubias leaves? A: Algae on Anubias is usually a sign of too much light or excess nutrients. Reduce your photoperiod to 6-8 hours and lower the intensity if possible. Ensure you are not overfeeding fish or overdosing fertilizers. Regular water changes help remove excess nutrients. You can also add algae-eating snails or shrimp, but they may not solve the root cause. Manually remove algae by gently wiping leaves or trimming heavily affected ones. Keeping the plant in a shadier spot often prevents recurrence.